- Read or be familiar with tool operation. See general instructions posted near the machine.
- If you need assistance with any operation, ask the floor monitor or shop manager for help.
- For putting a straight and square edge on a board.
- Recommended to take off only 1/16” at a pass. More can be taken off, but the cut may not be as smooth and there is the possibility of more snipe.
- 12” minimum length of board to be planed.
- Do not face-joint (or plane) stock that is less than 3/8” thick.
- Do not plane the end grain of wood.
- Make sure fence is square to table. Square is attached to the side of the jointer.
- Open vacuum vent.
- Try to edge with the grain pattern for smoother cut. Especially with hard or curly wood. Going against the grain pattern may cause chip out.
- Keep board flat against fence.
- Do not joint stock with loose knots.
- Keep pressure on board on back end of table.
- If board is narrower than fence height, use push stick when going over cutters.
- Do not pass hands on boards directly over cutter blades.
- Don’t edge a board longer than 8’ because it will interfere with the Miter (chop saw) Saw and Table Saw operating areas, (Do you really need the board that long?)
- Make sure there is clearance if someone is using Table Saw or Miter (chop saw) Saws on either end.
- If going to use shorter segments of long board, cut boards over length (to account for snipe) and edge them. Especially important if there is a curve on the board edge. It’s easier to straighten out a small arch than a large one.
- Slower the cut the smoother the cut,
- Put one good edge on and then rip to width on the table saw,
- Can do chamfer (angle cut, or bevel) on edge—make sure fence is squared up after use.
- Can move fence back and forth if blades are nicked or dull.
- Close vacuum vent.
- Clean up mess.
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